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  • Nice one. So great when its a simple solution.

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    • When do you connect any antiroll bar link. Jacked up or on the groound.
      https://www.picfair.com/users/MarkT128/

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      • a simple dog bone bolt in ball joint drop link can be put on anyway as its fully mobile, has no effect. bushes or joints that dont have full mobility should always be done up at ride height on the gound
        looking back now, I think that maybe, every now and again, I should have braked a little earlier

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        • Originally posted by Boris View Post
          How do you size a philips screw driver?
          Also, if the item is Japanese (cars, motorcycles, Shimano bicycle bits, etc), see if it's a JIS screw (look for the dot, see link below) - a Phillips screwdriver will butcher them, but the correct JIS screwdriver is a joy to use (less chance of cam-out than Phillips). https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-an...-phillips.html

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          • Originally posted by Type17 View Post

            Also, if the item is Japanese (cars, motorcycles, Shimano bicycle bits, etc), see if it's a JIS screw (look for the dot, see link below) - a Phillips screwdriver will butcher them, but the correct JIS screwdriver is a joy to use (less chance of cam-out than Phillips). https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-an...-phillips.html
            Feck me, never heard of that! Could have struggled with some stuff in the Cappuccino!

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            • Originally posted by Cappo View Post

              Feck me, never heard of that! Could have struggled with some stuff in the Cappuccino!
              Indeed, when our family were growing up with Toyotas in the 80's, we always used to get any spare yellow-handled "Toyota Motor Co." reversible screwdrivers from the Toyota tool kits lying around breakers, because we realised that they fitted the "phillips" screws on the Toyotas way better than generic (actual) Phillips 'drivers, but we only found out why this was a few years ago!

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              • Similar story here.

                When I was learning to ride/work on Jap bikes back in the day, always butchered the heads on the screws on the engine casings, and then had to pay a fortune for the right sized metric Allen / Hex socket head replacements. Was only after chatting to a guy who raced Yamahas and was always tearing them apart and putting them back together who told me to get the right screwdriver that the penny dropped.

                What we always thought was the rather cheap nasty screwdriver in the OEM toolkit that came with the bikes had a proper JLS head on one end, and worked perfectly on all of the crosshead screws on the bike.

                KBvMnKAl.jpg


                On the subject of JLS / non cam-out type heads, don't quote me on this - but I think the profile of the crosshead bits in impact driver sets is designed not to cam out either. I've often found using one of those, coupled with the extra torque you can generate by hand with the latter handle can persuade reluctant fasteners to come out that lesser Philips screwdrivers just won't.

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                • Anyone recommend someone in Dublin to weld on an o2 sensor bung on to a mild steel pipe. Job seems a bit small for the proper exhaust places.

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                  • Originally posted by -alan- View Post
                    Similar story here.

                    When I was learning to ride/work on Jap bikes back in the day, always butchered the heads on the screws on the engine casings, and then had to pay a fortune for the right sized metric Allen / Hex socket head replacements. Was only after chatting to a guy who raced Yamahas and was always tearing them apart and putting them back together who told me to get the right screwdriver that the penny dropped.

                    What we always thought was the rather cheap nasty screwdriver in the OEM toolkit that came with the bikes had a proper JLS head on one end, and worked perfectly on all of the crosshead screws on the bike.

                    KBvMnKAl.jpg


                    On the subject of JLS / non cam-out type heads, don't quote me on this - but I think the profile of the crosshead bits in impact driver sets is designed not to cam out either. I've often found using one of those, coupled with the extra torque you can generate by hand with the latter handle can persuade reluctant fasteners to come out that lesser Philips screwdrivers just won't.
                    I've been meaning to buy some JIS bits for a while and this company popped up. They seem to have good value but has anyone any experience of dealing with them?

                    https://toolforce.ie/sealey-socket-j...et-18pc-smc31/

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                    • So is a JIS head the same as a posidrive head?
                      We all stood around in a circle naked, thrusting our clinched fists in the air screaming "Jap Power!!"

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                      • Originally posted by markcro View Post
                        So is a JIS head the same as a posidrive head?
                        No, JIS is it's own thing. Japanese Industrial Standard.
                        My Africa Twin is fully of them and I'm sure the Crown will have them too

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                        • Yeah - they're different. Pozidrive has an inner set of vanes between the 4 main ones in the Philips/JLD sale bit, giving you a total of 8 little planes that provide rotating force.

                          The main difference between the Philips and JIS is at the nose - the angle of the blades on the Philips changes, which effectively reduces the amount of torque you can apply, and lets the bit 'cam out' of the screw head once a certain torque threshold has been reached. I was told back in the day that it was a design feature to allow machine tightening of fasteners with an inbuilt limit to stop the parts being overtightened - but that could be b0l0x . Does make it easy to understand why Philips bits aren't great if you have a a fastener well and truly stuck in place though.



                          3ebyMwql.jpg

                          Just for good measure - there's a new JIS profile kicking around now. As if things weren't complex enough
                          Last edited by -alan-; 05-12-2022, 08:13 PM.

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                          • Thanks! I never knew that. I always thought there was just Philips and Pozidrive....
                            We all stood around in a circle naked, thrusting our clinched fists in the air screaming "Jap Power!!"

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                            • Anyone into Japanese motorbikes moreso than cars will be only too familiar with JIS screws. since i started playing with bike carb conversions years ago i bought a JIS set of screwdrivers, and JIS screwdriver in a JIS screw is probably the best out of the lot its a very positive fit, if it hasn't been butchered by someone with a philips beforehand!
                              looking back now, I think that maybe, every now and again, I should have braked a little earlier

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                              • Originally posted by markcro View Post
                                Thanks! I never knew that. I always thought there was just Philips and Pozidrive....
                                Here, have a Rabbit-hole to go down...

                                https://www.drillanddriver.com/diffe...nd-their-uses/

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