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a simple dog bone bolt in ball joint drop link can be put on anyway as its fully mobile, has no effect. bushes or joints that dont have full mobility should always be done up at ride height on the gound
looking back now, I think that maybe, every now and again, I should have braked a little earlier
Also, if the item is Japanese (cars, motorcycles, Shimano bicycle bits, etc), see if it's a JIS screw (look for the dot, see link below) - a Phillips screwdriver will butcher them, but the correct JIS screwdriver is a joy to use (less chance of cam-out than Phillips). https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-an...-phillips.html
Also, if the item is Japanese (cars, motorcycles, Shimano bicycle bits, etc), see if it's a JIS screw (look for the dot, see link below) - a Phillips screwdriver will butcher them, but the correct JIS screwdriver is a joy to use (less chance of cam-out than Phillips). https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-an...-phillips.html
Feck me, never heard of that! Could have struggled with some stuff in the Cappuccino!
Feck me, never heard of that! Could have struggled with some stuff in the Cappuccino!
Indeed, when our family were growing up with Toyotas in the 80's, we always used to get any spare yellow-handled "Toyota Motor Co." reversible screwdrivers from the Toyota tool kits lying around breakers, because we realised that they fitted the "phillips" screws on the Toyotas way better than generic (actual) Phillips 'drivers, but we only found out why this was a few years ago!
When I was learning to ride/work on Jap bikes back in the day, always butchered the heads on the screws on the engine casings, and then had to pay a fortune for the right sized metric Allen / Hex socket head replacements. Was only after chatting to a guy who raced Yamahas and was always tearing them apart and putting them back together who told me to get the right screwdriver that the penny dropped.
What we always thought was the rather cheap nasty screwdriver in the OEM toolkit that came with the bikes had a proper JLS head on one end, and worked perfectly on all of the crosshead screws on the bike.
On the subject of JLS / non cam-out type heads, don't quote me on this - but I think the profile of the crosshead bits in impact driver sets is designed not to cam out either. I've often found using one of those, coupled with the extra torque you can generate by hand with the latter handle can persuade reluctant fasteners to come out that lesser Philips screwdrivers just won't.
When I was learning to ride/work on Jap bikes back in the day, always butchered the heads on the screws on the engine casings, and then had to pay a fortune for the right sized metric Allen / Hex socket head replacements. Was only after chatting to a guy who raced Yamahas and was always tearing them apart and putting them back together who told me to get the right screwdriver that the penny dropped.
What we always thought was the rather cheap nasty screwdriver in the OEM toolkit that came with the bikes had a proper JLS head on one end, and worked perfectly on all of the crosshead screws on the bike.
On the subject of JLS / non cam-out type heads, don't quote me on this - but I think the profile of the crosshead bits in impact driver sets is designed not to cam out either. I've often found using one of those, coupled with the extra torque you can generate by hand with the latter handle can persuade reluctant fasteners to come out that lesser Philips screwdrivers just won't.
I've been meaning to buy some JIS bits for a while and this company popped up. They seem to have good value but has anyone any experience of dealing with them?
Yeah - they're different. Pozidrive has an inner set of vanes between the 4 main ones in the Philips/JLD sale bit, giving you a total of 8 little planes that provide rotating force.
The main difference between the Philips and JIS is at the nose - the angle of the blades on the Philips changes, which effectively reduces the amount of torque you can apply, and lets the bit 'cam out' of the screw head once a certain torque threshold has been reached. I was told back in the day that it was a design feature to allow machine tightening of fasteners with an inbuilt limit to stop the parts being overtightened - but that could be b0l0x . Does make it easy to understand why Philips bits aren't great if you have a a fastener well and truly stuck in place though.
Anyone into Japanese motorbikes moreso than cars will be only too familiar with JIS screws. since i started playing with bike carb conversions years ago i bought a JIS set of screwdrivers, and JIS screwdriver in a JIS screw is probably the best out of the lot its a very positive fit, if it hasn't been butchered by someone with a philips beforehand!
looking back now, I think that maybe, every now and again, I should have braked a little earlier
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